- Grow a seed: how to?
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Now that you know what the essential tools are for a successful home farm, or urban garden, it’s time to get growing! There are three main things your plants need to reach maturity; food, light, and timing.
Each plant type requires slightly different combinations of watering, fertilizing, and time to reach maturity. Some plants like cooler weather, while others require warmth to germinate. Some plants crave hot direct sun, while others are fine chilling in the shade.
You can find the necessary information for each plant on a seed packet, or you can let us take the hassle out of it and choose from our pre-designed garden kits, or design your own custom garden that’s been pre-filtered with plants that are guaranteed to grow.
Timing is especially important when choosing seeds for your garden, and seed packets will inform you what the DTM or “Days To Maturity” are for each plant type. It’s important to choose seeds that can grow to maturity within your growing season, which is typically between two weeks after your last frost, and two weeks before your first frost. We make sure that Seedsheets contain only the fastest DTM plants possible to provide you with quick sprouts and early harvests!
Many people choose to germinate their seeds early in the spring when it’s still too cold outside to direct sow, and then transplant their seedlings into outdoor containers once they are established and healthy. This can enable you to start growing earlier and can be a good tactic for slow-maturing plants like tomatoes or peppers, but does come with additional challenges. “Transplant shock” can occur if the outdoor environment is vastly different from the indoor germination environment, so many people “harden” their seedlings by gradually introducing them to the outdoors for short windows of time before eventually transplanting.
- If you’re looking for the easiest method, try starting with a Seedsheet, there’s no need to transplant, and you’ll get everything you need plus our garden guru software which will send you texts with tips and tutorials to guide you from seed to supper.
- If you’re planting conventionally, you should start with a seed tray (plastic cell-tray) that is filled with a seed-starting potting soil mix. Sow each seed into the soil per the seed packets’ recommendation, and very gently and evenly add water until the soil is moist. It is critical to keep the seeds damp during the germination phase as they need constant contact with moisture to sprout.
- Many seed-starting trays come with a clear plastic lid which can be placed atop the tray to prevent the moisture from evaporating. If you don’t have a lid or are planting in an egg-carton or small pots, you can cover your seeds with a layer of plastic wrap.
- You should water daily if needed to maintain moisture on the seeds, and place the plastic covering back atop the seeds once completed.
- Once you see your seeds starting to sprout, remove the cover, and continue to water as needed. You can keep your seedlings in the cell tray until they are about 2-4” in height and have developed their “true leaves” (the foliage leaves, rather than the seed leaves or cotyledon).
- When your seedlings have developed their true leaves, and grown to 2-4” in height, they can be transplanted to their final container or outside garden. As mentioned before, to prevent transplant shock, it’s advisable to gradually introduce the seedlings to the environment where they are to be ultimately transplanted. You can bring your entire seed-tray outside for a couple of hours at a time to introduce them to their new stomping grounds.
- If you are direct sowing your seeds or transplanting your seedlings, it’s very important to space them apart correctly. Different plants require varying amounts of room so they can grow and mature into larger plants. Small plants like carrots can be planted a few inches apart, but large bushy plants like tomatoes need significantly more space. The back of each seed packet will provide plant and row spacing suggestions for you to follow. Or you could just plant a Seedsheet...
- Natural light: how to?
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Most seedlings require quite a bit of light. If they don’t receive adequate light they will get “leggy,” meaning they will emphasize vertical stem growth to reach the sun instead of foliar leaf growth. When it comes to home farming and urban gardening, sunlight will be the most critical component! If you’re growing indoors, you’ll need to find the location that receives the most sunlight possible. The general rule of thumb is that plants need at least 8-hours of direct sunlight a day to reach maturity, so the best place to start is any south-facing window that receives direct unimpeded sunlight.
Similar to temperature preferences, different plants require varying amounts of light to thrive. Each plant’s light preference can be found on the back of seed packets.
- Direct light — The plant needs 8+ hours of bright, hard light. This is true of most fruiting plants like corn, tomatoes, sunflowers, peppers etc.
- Moderate light —The plant needs 6+ hours of direct light. This is true for most salad and herb plant varieties.
- Indirect light — The plant needs only ambient light, and shouldn’t be placed in any location that receives harsh direct sunlight. Fast growing salad greens and sprouts will work in this environment, as well as many common house-plants.
- Low light — The plant doesn’t need direct sunshine. This is perfect for the neglectful plant killers out there! Many cacti, succulents, and house plants thrive off of abandonment, so don’t worry!
The best way to select the location for your home farm is to start with the sunniest location you have. If you have a cat, commandeer their favorite sunning spot and turn it into your new garden (sorry Mittens).
If you simply don’t have access to natural sunlight, you can still turn your apartment into an urban farm using a LED grow light! There are several grow lights on the market ranging from high pressure sodium to LED, but we have found that LEDs are the easiest to use and can consistently produce ample harvests for both leaf and fruiting plants. We carry a LED Grow Light on our website, and encourage anyone living in a dark dungeon to lighten it up with some tomatoes!
- Watering: how to?
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When it comes to watering seedlings, there is no silver bullet recipe. Watering, just like natural lighting, requires observation and familiarization the with plants that you’re trying to grow. And, it can mean the difference between perfect plants and dying ones.
Because plants have different preferences, types of soil retain moisture differently, and watering cans have different flows, there’s no “water for 10-seconds” rule that will result in perfect plants. You’re going to have to trust your eyes, and your finger!
When sprouting seeds, it’s crucial to keep the soil moist so the seeds can germinate, and thankfully it’s pretty easy to determine visually if the soil is adequately wet. If it looks like brownie mix, good, if it looks like a cooked brownie, bad! (Now I want brownies…). However as your plants sprout and establish themselves, especially once their leaves obscure the soil so you can’t visually identify the viscosity of your “brownie mix”, then you have to use your sense of touch! Simply insert your finger about an inch or two into the soil, if you feel that the soil is no longer moist, then it’s a good time to water!
Plants also show signs of dehydration, and will get droopy and wilt, this most frequently is the result of a lack of water and can be easily fixed with a good dousing. You’ll be amazed by how even the saddest looking plants can rebound after a healthy wakeup of cool H20!
- What’s the best watering technique?
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Home-farming plants can be watered by hand if you are growing indoors or maintaining a small urban garden. We recommend using a watering can with a fine misting head, or you can use a water bottle with a misting nozzle (like we include with all container Seedsheets).
It is important, especially during the seedling stage, to add water directly to the soil rather than atop the plant’s leaves. Young immature seedlings have very weak stems and can be easily knocked over and broken if watered too forcibly from above. A fine misting nozzle can help ensure that you’re feeding your plants gently.
As your plants grow larger, you should still make an effort to apply water to their base whenever possible, and avoid spraying their leaves. Some plants like cucumbers or zucchini will grow like wildfire and their bushy leaves will obscure the ground entirely making it very difficult to water the soil directly. As your plants get larger you should take extreme care to avoid watering during the heat of the day, because water molecules that remain on the leaves will become tiny magnifying glasses and burn the leaves as the sunlight is directed through the drops. It’s important to water either in the morning or the evening.
Another popular watering technique, specifically for outdoor gardens and raised beds is called drip irrigation. Drip irrigation usually involves a serpentine porous hose which is laid on the surface of your garden, winding around the plants’ bases, which when turned on gradually drips water to the soil. Drip irrigation is used in most commercial farming applications because it can be turned on remotely via a smart-spigot, and because it applies water directly to the soil there is less evaporation and therefore less water consumption.
- Beware the excesses!
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Yes, it’s possible to overwater. Overwatering is the main reason that the majority of first-time gardeners aren’t successful. But it’s not always your fault! Oftentimes this is the result of an improper garden container with poor drainage, and fortunately there are signs that you can help you identify if you’re killing your plants instead of helping them!
If your garden becomes noticeably soggy, and water starts to pool on the surface of your soil without being quickly absorbed into the depths, that’s a definite sign that your garden is oversaturated.
Overwatered plants can start to turn yellow, and then a soggy brown. If you see this, either try to avoid watering for a couple of days and see if the soil dries out and the plants rebound, or transplant to a more breathable garden container.
If only there was a way to know if your garden is getting too little or too much water!? We are launching an awesome bluetooth connected device with moisture, sunlight, and temperature sensors. The sensor is simply placed in your garden, syncs with our app, and will let you know exactly how your garden is doing in realtime. Pre-Order yours today!
- Fertilizing: how to?
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Plants don’t just need to drink, they need to eat too! Feeding your plants with proper fertilizers is the best way to promote their growth and speed their way to a delicious supper for you.
Like most parts of gardening, there is an abundance of available information (or misinformation!) on the various types of fertilizers. In an effort to sell more products, companies are even creating plant-specific fertilizers for tomatoes, or flowers, or herbs… But don’t worry, these are predominantly the same mixtures of nutrients with a different label on the bag! There really are two main fertilizer types, one that increases foliar (leaf) growth, and one that increases flower or fruit growth.
Many of the gardening-specific soil mixes that you can purchase in a store are already fortified with some fertilizer, so take care that if you do select a nutrient-rich soil that you don’t add fertilizer at least until week 3 of growth once most of it has already been absorbed by your plants.
There are two main types of fertilizer available on the market today:
- Water Soluble liquid fertilizer - This liquid fertilizer can be either synthetic or organic in composition, and is a great and easy way to combine into your normal watering schedule. (WARNING: many of the fish-based organic fertilizers work phenomenally... but if applied to an indoor plant will make your house smell like a fish market).
- Granular fertilizer - This fertilizer usually comes in a bag or bucket, and has the consistency of large granulated salt. It is usually applied directly to a garden bed to amend a previously used soil before replanting, or is placed on the surface of soil around a plant’s base. Granular fertilizer is slowly absorbed into the soil as the plant is watered, and can be a great alternative to water soluble fertilizer for an outdoor garden that receives consistent rain.
With all fertilizer, it is crucial that you follow the directions on the container to apply the correct dosage and avoid burning your plants. Too much fertilizer, like too much McDonald’s, will leave you very, very unhappy.
Do you need fertilizer? We carry a fantastic organic all-purpose liquid fertilizer that comes pre-measured so you know how much to pply and when!